Langkawi Hotel

Legendary isle
Once upon a time, Pulau Langkawi (Langkawi island) was a sleepy island believed to be under a spell cast by a legendary princess, Mahsuri, who live in the 14th century and was unfairly executed for adultery. It is largely through the efforts of Kedah-born former Prime Minister Mahathir that is has been elevated to the status of a major tourist destination. Malaysia’s Father of Independence, Tunku Abdul Rahman, was of the Kedah royal family and many political leaders are northerners, including current Prime Minister Abdullah Badawi.

A beautiful limestone cliff and forestarchipelago of over 100 islands, some of which are mere rocks that vanish at high tide, Langkawi is being marketed as a modern-day legend. Ferries service the main island between 8am-6pm from Kuala Perlis at hourly intervals (40 minutes), Kuala Kedah every 90 minutes and once a day from Penag (2 and half hours). Boats also go to Satun in Thailand four times a day. During the monsoon months of July to September, seas can be choppy, and services may be cancelled. Malaysia airlines operates daily flights from Alor Setar, Penang, Kuala Lumpur, as well as from London twice a week.

Tax-free shopping
Langkawi’s duty-free status has succeeded in injecting life into the island. From the jetty to the main town, Kuah, nearly every shop is crammed with chocolates, electronic items and household goods. Not all items are bargain, but alcohol and cigarettes are exempt from Malaysia’s heavy “sin” taxes on Langkawi; however visitors are only allowed to bring out 1 litre of alcohol and a carton of cigarettes after a minimum stay 72 hours. The old market is a good place to buy Indonesia batik and Chinese made towels. Trendy craft shops are moving in with hand-painted fabrics and Asian curios.

yet more shops sit on the reclaimed land which starts right next to the jetty. Here you’ll see an enormous statue of an angle; among the many interpretations of its name, Langkawi is thought to derive from the word helang, Bahasa Malaysia for “eagle”. The status of the majestic creature about sour is a powerful allegory, one might say, for the tremendous success of the island resort.

There is a range of hotels and good seafood restaurants at Kuah, but the more enjoyable option is to find accommodation at one of the island’s many beaches and head into town for a spot of shopping.

Covers, coral and caves
Langkawi has a roads that go round the island. Cars and motorbikes can be hired at the jetty, in town or Pantai Cenang, the most popular beach. Alternatively, book yourself into a half day guided tour with any tour agency at Kuah. Most visitors head for Pantai Cenang in the southwest, an hour from Kuah by bus and less by by taxi. The beach here is lined with places to stay, while opposite are restaurants, souvenir shops, and yet more accommodation. There is something for every budget, from the luxury Pelangi Beach Resort, to rooms in well-tended garden and A-frame huts.

The road leads south to Pantai Tengah, which is quieter and more upmarket, but doesn’t have such a nice beach. The road ends at a new marina resort and awful bowling and cinema complex at Teluk Baru (literally New Bay), built on, yes, reclaimed land. En route to Pantai Tengah is Underwater World Langkawi (open daily 10am-8pm; entrance fee) which showcases over 5000 sea and freshwater species. One highline is a 15 meter (50 ft) glass tunnel within a giant saltwater tank with larger species such as sharks, stingrays and turtles.

At the upper end of Cenang is the Muzium Padi (Rice Museum), which celebrates the staple of the Langkawi folk. Further pass the airport, the road winds through lush forest, passing Pantai Kok, formerly one of the island’s most beautiful beaches but now the subject of a misguided reclaimation project. Further on is the pretty beach of Burau Bay with two luxury resorts at either end. Behind, the jagged peaks of Gunung Mat Cincang provide a dramatic backdrop to the rather tacky Oriental Village, worth visiting only to get on the Langkawi Cable Car (tel:04-9594225; open daily 10am-7pm; entrance fee). A 20 minutes journey along the 2.2km (1.4 miles) route brings you to two platforms with 360 degree views of the Andaman Sea from 708 meters (2320 ft) above sea level.

Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells) is located further down the road from the Oriental Village; legend has it that mountain fairies come to these pools to bathe but vanish at the slight of humans. Note, however, that the pools evaporate in the dry season.

Rocks and resorts
The Mat Cincang formation is the oldest rock in the Peninsula, and a good look at the sedimentary structure can be had at the end of the road at Teluk Datai in the north. Datai is the location of the of the exclusive resort called The Datai. an award-winning Balinese-influenced resort with a golf course and private beach as well as the multi-award winning luxury resort, The andaman. Two exclusive properties, The Tanjung Rhu and The Four Seasons Resort, are found on the secluded northern beach nestled among mangrove forests at scenic Tanjung Rhu. They both have well-known spas, gracious service and a full range of facilities and amenities. Their white sandy beaches on Langkawi’s northern cape offer scenic sunsets against a backdrop of mountains rainforest. Gua Cerita across the straits is a cave attraction along with 24 caves that dot the islands, including Gua Kelawar (Bat Cave) in the southeast, set among mangroves and Gua Tanjung Dendang on Pulau Dayang Bunting.

Outside the glitzy tourist beaches, Langkawi’s predominantly Malay population of 43,000 maintain their peaceful agrarian lifestyle in much the same way they did before their home was catapulted into the limelight. The older kampung folk do not participate in the tourism industry - hotel staff are overwhelmingly from the mainland - and visitors are generally ignored, particularly in December during the Lima maritime and aerial exhibition when there is not a single free room to be found on the island.

From Tanjung Rhu, continue along the road to Kuah for about 5km (3 miles) to reach Durian Perangi Waterfalls (Air Terjun Durian Perangi), which unlike Telaga Tujuh, never runs dry. Back on the main road, another turning to the left goes to Barn Thai, a unique Thai restaurant in the middle of a mangrove swamp that features live acts.

Langkawi’s island
From Kuah, head west to go inland for 12km (7 miles) to reach to tomb of Makam Mahsuri (Mahsuri’s Tomb; open daily 8am-6pm,entrance fee), which honours this local heroine. The tomb and the surrounds are constructed from Langkawi marble. At the quarry outside Kuah is a showroom with marble crafts for sale. When you return to Cenang, take the southern coastal road, Jalan Bukit malut, to enjoy some spectacular views.

Langkawi’s mazse of islands is full of secret channels, narrows, inlets and bays. Shadowed cliffs, topped by dense virgin jungle, reach up to 600 meters (2000 ft) and drop abruptly into the sea. There are inhabited by fishermen, the sea gypsies, and it is also obvious why pirates who preyed upon the trading ships in the Straits of Melaka sought refuge here.

Pulau Dayang Bunting, the second-largest islands of the group, has a unique deep fresh and salt water lake, whose ice-cold waters are believed to aid conception. (Its name translate as ‘Island of the Pregnant Maiden’). Next to it is Pulau Singa Besar, which is a bird and animal sanctuary located on an interesting hilly island; there is a boardwalk that meanders throught mangrove, sandy and rocky coastline. Sun-soakers can enjoy the gorgeous beaches on some of the other islands, including Pulau Bras Basah. Boats from Tanjung Rhu, Pantai Cenang and Kuah tour these islands in about 4 hours, but you have to book the whole eight-seater speedboat. The langkawi Yacht Club at Kuah also organises sunset tours.

Marine life is richest at Pulau Payar, a marine park, one bumpy hour by boat from the main island. While underwater visibility is rarely more than 3 meter (10 ft), it has lots of life, including sharks that come right up to shore, encouraged by hand-feeding visitors, and colourful soft coral blooms on wrecks in deeper waters. Book with dive operators on the main island, or if you’re interested in snorkelling and a picnic, any boat operator. There are also dive sites at the neighboring islets of Segantang, Kaca and Lembu.

Legendary Place Names
Langkawi’s legends are legion and often more interesting than the places they celebrate. The “main” tale concern Mahsuri, accused of adultery by the jealous chief’s wife. At her execution, white blood spurted out, confirming her innocence. Before she died, Mahsuri laid a curse upon the island’s next seven generations.

Immediately after, the Thais attacked Langkawi, and the villagers at Padang Mat Sirat burned their rice fields rather than let it fall into Siamese hands - few grains remain at Beras Terbakar ( field of Burnt Rice). A Romeo and Juliet-type legend is behind several other place names. Union between a couple was refused by the girl’s parents and in a family feud, pots and pans were thrown at Belnga Pecah (broken pots). The gravy jug landed at Kuah (gravy), while jugs of boiling water formed the Telaga Air Hangat hot springs. The fighting ended when the two fathers were transformed into mountains - Gunung Raya and Gunung Mat Cincang.

Tasik Dayang Bunting got its name after a Kedah princess, forbidden to marry her lover, fell pregnant after drinking from the lake. The angry king banished her to the island where she drowned herself in the lake and became a rock.